While we only work with solid gold at Gem Breakfast, we know it’s confusing out there with so many materials to choose from, so we’re here to help! Keep reading for the pros and cons of solid gold, gold filled, gold plated, and vermeil jewelry.
SOLID GOLD
“Solid gold” describes jewelry made entirely of gold or a gold alloy. What's a gold alloy? Because pure 24 karat gold is too soft for jewelry, it’s usually mixed with other materials like copper, silver, nickel, zinc, and palladium for added strength and durability. The gold karat tells you the ratio of gold to other metal alloys:
- 24 Karat gold: 99.9% gold
- 22 Karat gold: 91.7% pure gold
- 18 Karat gold: 75% pure gold
- 14 Karat gold: 58.3% pure gold
14-karat and 18-karat solid gold are the most popular choices for fine jewelry – they're the perfect balance between purity and durability. You can choose from yellow gold, rose gold, Peach Gold, and white gold. The color of gold is determined by which metal alloys it’s mixed with.
For more about each hue of gold (and how to choose between them), read our blog!
Advantages of solid gold
Nothing beats the rich, buttery deliciousness of solid gold. It's the most durable and long-lasting option here, and with a little care, it can last a lifetime (or several—there's a reason antique gold jewelry is still kicking around).
The biggest difference is that solid gold is gold all the way through. There's no outer gold layer to fade or wear away and expose a different metal underneath. It doesn't tarnish or fade, and scratches or dullness from years of wear can be polished away. Solid gold jewelry can also be repaired, resized, and refinished again and again.
With demi-fine jewelry options like gold filled, gold plated, or vermeil, you need to limit your wear-time and be very careful to avoid damage and tarnishing.
Solid gold is the most valuable option – it retains its value very well over time. If solid gold does get scratched or dull, it can be easily polished to restore its original shine.
Solid gold can also be infinitely recycled, making it the most sustainable gold choice. Gold-plated, gold filled, and vermeil on the other hand, simply wear away with time and become waste.
If you’re buying an engagement ring, wedding band, or treat-yourself ring that you plan to wear constantly and keep for many decades, opt for solid gold.
Disadvantages of solid gold
The real disadvantage of solid gold is the upfront cost—it's the most expensive option here. But it also lasts the longest, retains value, and can be repaired rather than replaced. If we're talking cost-per-wear, solid gold wins by a mile.
what is GOLD FILLED JEWELRY?
Gold filled jewelry is made by bonding a layer of gold onto a base metal (usually brass) core. To be considered gold filled in the U.S., gold must make up at least 5% of the item's total weight. Most gold filled jewelry uses 12K or 14K gold.
Because this process uses specialized machinery, gold filled jewelry is usually mass-produced as independent jewelers don’t have access to the machinery.
Advantages of gold filled jewelry
Compared to gold plated or vermeil, gold filled has the thickest layer of gold, meaning it will last longer before tarnishing, fading, and wearing down to the base metal underneath the gold.
Gold filled jewelry is less expensive than solid gold, so if you’re on a budget and don’t need your jewelry to last a lifetime, this can be a good option.
Disadvantages of gold filled jewelry
While it’s more durable than vermeil or gold plated jewelry, gold filled jewelry is still only 1/20th gold and that layer will eventually wear off over time. Gold filled jewelry also can’t be polished or restored like solid gold can – once it fades or wears through, that's what you’re stuck with.
Water, sweat, lotions, chemicals, and everyday friction can all shorten its lifespan.
If you’re allergic to base metals, you may want to avoid gold fill since it will eventually wear down to its base metal core.
Unlike solid gold, gold filled jewelry won’t hold its value, so while it’s less expensive to begin with, it will eventually wear down to its brass core.
That's why we'd choose solid gold for an engagement ring or another piece expected to survive decades of daily wear.
One thing to watch for when shopping for gold filled jewelry: make sure you're buying from a reputable retailer. We've seen plenty of jewelry marketed as “gold filled” that clearly isn't. True gold filled jewelry has specific standards in the U.S., but that doesn't stop every seller from using the term incorrectly.
If the gold disappears after a few wears to reveal a completely different metal underneath, that's a pretty good sign you didn't get what was advertised. Look for clear information about the gold content and karat, and be especially wary of suspiciously inexpensive pieces from sellers that don't provide much information about their materials.
gold filled vs gold plated
Both gold filled and gold plated jewelry are made by applying a thin layer of gold over a base metal. Gold filled jewelry is more standardized and must contain at least 5% gold, whereas gold plated jewelry can vary considerably and is microscopically thin.
While gold filled jewelry has a thicker layer of gold on the outside, it’s still a microscopically thin layer. The difference is that there’s simply more gold there to wear through, so gold filled generally lasts longer than regular gold plating.
If you're choosing between the two, gold filled makes more sense for something you plan to wear regularly. Gold plated is the less expensive option for jewelry you only plan to wear occasionally.
gold filled vs gold vermeil
Gold filled jewelry is made by pressure or heat bonding a thin layer of gold over a base metal like brass, whereas gold vermeil is made by applying a layer of gold over a sterling silver base. The outer gold layer is usually a bit thicker on gold filled jewelry vs gold vermeil.
One advantage gold filled has over vermeil? If you love yellow gold, the brass underneath keeps a warmer, yellow-metal look even as the gold layer wears down. With vermeil, the sterling silver underneath eventually starts to show.
Gold filled items will usually outlast gold vermeil thanks to the heat/pressure bonding method used.
GOLD VERMEIL meaning
Gold vermeil jewelry has a sterling silver core and is plated with gold. To be considered gold vermeil, the plating must be at least 10 karat gold and 2.5 microns thick. How thick is 2.5 microns? A human hair is about 70 microns in thickness, so vermeil plating is about 28 times thinner than a single strand of hair.
Advantages of gold vermeil
The biggest draw of gold vermeil is the price – it’s less expensive than solid gold jewelry. The plating is thicker than regular gold plating so it will last longer before wearing down to its sterling silver core.
When the gold plating does wear down, there's sterling silver underneath, making it more hypoallergenic than gold filled or gold plated jewelry which use copper or brass as a core.
Disadvantages of gold vermeil
Like the other plated options, gold vermeil still only uses a thin outer layer of gold and will eventually wear down to metal underneath - it’s not suitable for everyday, long-term wear. Like the other gold plated options, gold vermeil can't be recycled or reused - if sustainability is important to you, steer clear of anything plated.
Like all gold plated jewelry, you’ll want to avoid anything that can accelerate tarnishing – think sweat, humidity, water, pollution, lotions, and chemicals.
gold vermeil vs gold filled
Gold vermeil jewelry is made by applying a thin layer of gold over a sterling silver base, while gold filled jewelry is made by pressure or heat bonding a thin layer of gold over a base metal, usually brass. Gold filled jewelry generally has a slightly thicker outer layer of gold (though still very thin at 5%) and tends to last longer before that layer wears through.
The biggest material difference underneath is sterling silver vs. brass. If you prefer having sterling silver underneath once the gold begins to wear, vermeil has that advantage. If you're more concerned with how long the outer gold layer will last, gold filled generally has the edge.
gold vermeil vs gold plated
Gold vermeil and gold plated jewelry are both made by applying a thin layer of gold over another metal. The big difference is what's underneath: vermeil must have a sterling silver base, while regular gold plated jewelry can use a base metal like brass or copper.
That matters once the gold starts to wear away. With vermeil, you'll eventually see silver coming through. With gold plated jewelry, what shows through depends on the base metal—brass will keep a warmer, yellow-metal look, copper will look more reddish, while other metals may look silver or gray.
Vermeil also has stricter standards: in the U.S., the gold must be at least 10K and 2.5 microns thick (remember, this is still extremely thin at about 28x thinner than a human hair). Regular gold plating doesn't have the same minimum thickness requirement, so it can be extremely thin and will generally wear through faster.
GOLD PLATED JEWELRY
Gold plated jewelry is made by applying an extremely thin layer of gold over another metal, usually brass or copper. The thickness can vary, but gold electroplating can be as thin as 0.175 microns. For context, a human hair is around 70 microns thick—that makes a 0.175-micron layer of gold about 400 times thinner than a human hair. We’re talking a truly microscopic amount of gold.
Unlike gold filled jewelry, which must contain at least 5% gold by weight, or vermeil, which has specific requirements for both the gold layer and the sterling silver underneath, regular gold plating can vary considerably from one piece to another.
No matter how it’s applied, the gold is still only on the surface. As that layer wears away, the metal underneath begins to show—which is why gold plated jewelry can look very different after regular wear than it did when it was new.
Advantages of gold plated jewelry
Gold plated jewelry is the least expensive option here - a budget-friendly, better quality alternative to costume jewelry.
Disadvantages of gold plated jewelry
Because it’s coated with such a thin layer of gold, gold plated jewelry will tarnish and wear down to the base metal quickly and easily. You’ll want to wear it only occasionally and remove it when washing your hands, showering, putting on lotion, exercising, and sweating to keep the gold layer intact for as long as possible.
If you’re allergic to base metals, avoid gold plated jewelry as it will wear down to the base metal core fairly quickly. With the shortest lifespan, gold plated jewelry is the least sustainable choice.
gold plated vs gold filled
Both gold plated and gold filled jewelry are made by applying a thin layer of gold over a base metal. Gold plated jewelry has a much thinner layer of gold than gold filled jewelry, which is regulated to contain at least 5% gold.
For regular wear, we'd choose gold filled. Its gold layer is substantially thicker and more durable than ordinary plating, so you won't expose the base metal as quickly.
Gold plated wins on price. Gold filled wins on longevity.
Is gold plated jewelry waterproof?
No. Despite what you may have seen from jewelry brands advertising “waterproof” or “tarnish-proof” gold plated jewelry, gold plating isn't waterproof. The gold is still only a microscopically thin layer sitting on top of another metal, and eventually, that layer will wear away.
Getting it wet can speed up the process. Showering, bathing, washing your hands, swimming in the ocean, soaking in a hot tub, and especially swimming in chlorinated pools expose your jewelry to water, salt, chlorine, soap, and other chemicals. Add in sweat, sunscreen, lotions, and everyday friction, and that outer gold layer will eventually get thinner until the metal underneath starts to show.
How quickly that happens depends on the thickness and quality of the plating and how you wear it. Some plated jewelry lasts longer than others, but “waterproof” doesn't mean the gold layer can't wear off. It can, and eventually it will.
The same basic rule applies to gold filled and vermeil. They generally have more gold on the surface than regular plating and can take longer to wear through, but they still have a layer of gold over a different metal underneath.
If you want jewelry you can shower, swim, sweat, sleep, wash your hands, and live in without an outer gold layer eventually wearing away, solid gold is the answer.
So, which should you buy? If longevity is the priority and your budget allows for it, solid gold is the clear winner. There’s no outer layer to eventually disappear, and it can be repaired, refinished, and worn for generations.
If solid gold isn’t in the budget, understanding what you’re buying matters more than anything. Gold filled will generally give you the longest wear of the alternatives, followed by vermeil and then regular gold plating.