Whether you're treating yourself or shopping for an emerald cut engagement ring for someone else, look no further for help choosing your perfect emerald cut diamond! Keep reading for:
- What is an emerald cut diamond?
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Why we love emerald cuts
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How to choose an emerald cut diamond
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Emerald cut versus cushion cut, asscher cut, and radiant cut
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The most famous emerald cut engagement rings
WHAT IS AN EMERALD CUT DIAMOND?
Emerald cut diamonds are step-cut diamonds, meaning they have long parallel facets with a mirrored staircase vibe. While most emerald diamonds are rectangles, they can be a rectangular or square shape. Both shapes have cut corners for extra durability.
ORIGINS OF THE EMERALD CUT DIAMOND
One of the earliest diamond shapes, the emerald cut started with emeralds in the 1500s. The cutting style was used to reduce pressure (and breakage) when cutting emeralds which are much softer and less durable than diamonds. As the style became more popular, diamond cutters began using it for diamonds.
Why We Love Emerald Cut Diamonds
ANGULAR DRAMA
With a delicious art-deco, Great Gatsby energy, emerald cut diamonds never lose their lustre. They give a nod to times gone by with their subtle candlelit shine, yet feel forever modern with their elongated proportions and geometric clean lines.
LESS EXPENSIVE
Emerald cut diamonds are about 10-15% less expensive than round brilliant diamonds of the same quality and carat weight.
WHY ARE EMERALD CUT DIAMONDS LESS EXPENSIVE?
The emerald cut wastes less of the diamond rough than other shapes, saving on cost (and winning on sustainability). Also, as a more unique choice, the demand is lower, bringing the price down - a plus for everyone that loves to go against the grain.
ALMOST UNBREAKABLE
Those cut corners are more than just drama, they help prevent damage that can happen with sharp pointed corners like on a princess cut diamond.
So, if you're extra active and want to stay on the safe side, we love this gemstone cut for you.
EMERALD CUTS LOOK BIGGER
If you put a round brilliant diamond beside an emerald cut diamond of the same carat weight, the emerald cut would look noticeably larger - who doesn't love that?
WHY DO EMERALD CUTS LOOK LARGER?
Step cut stones have less depth than brilliant cuts, so more of the weight is at the top, making it look larger from above.
FINGER FLATTERING
With their elongated proportions, emerald shaped diamonds can slim and lengthen the look of your finger when set north-west. We do love an east-west set emerald cut though. Decisions, decisions.
FLASH FACTOR
Unlike a brilliant cut diamond which has a continuous disco ball sparkle, an emerald diamond gives off unexpected flashes of blindingly bright light with a more subtle shine the rest of the time. We love a surprise shine moment.
HOW TO CHOOSE AN EMERALD CUT DIAMOND - THE 4CS
EMERALD CUT DIAMOND - CLARITY
Whereas brilliant cut diamonds have all-over facets that camouflage flaws, emerald cut diamonds, with their large, see-through table and parallel facets, don't hide inclusions or blemishes very well. You can peer right into the diamond and any flaws can be easily seen.
So, if you're looking for an eye-clean diamond, you'll want to opt for a higher clarity grade versus other diamond shapes.
THE GIA CLARITY SCALE
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Flawless (FL) - No inclusions or blemishes can be seen with 10× magnification
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Internally Flawless (IF) - No inclusions (but some blemishes) can be seen with 10x magnification
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Very, Very Slightly Included (VVS1 and VVS2) - Inclusions are difficult to see under 10× magnification
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Very Slightly Included (VS1 and VS2) - Minor inclusions can be seen under 10x magnification
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Slightly Included (SI1 and SI2) - Noticeable inclusions under 10x magnification
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Included (I1, I2, and I3) - Obvious inclusions under 10× magnification
EMERALD CUT DIAMOND - COLOR
Diamonds are graded for color by the GIA from D (colorless) to Z (champagne tones). Just like with clarity, that wide open table shows a diamond's color more than with other diamond shapes.
Keep in mind though, diamond color varies between every stone, and in the end it's all about what you love.Choose what you're drawn to first and worry about the grading second. Often, multiple color grades will look exactly the same to the naked eye.
Not to mention - diamonds are graded by humans, and different diamond graders could give the exact same stone completely different grades - there's an element of subjectivity.
EMERALD CUT DIAMOND - CUT
'Cut' is the real predictor of a diamond's beauty. A well-cut diamond with shine bright in direct light and luminize in low light.
The GIA doesn't give an overarching cut grade for emerald diamonds like they do for round brilliants, making it a touch trickier to choose an emerald cut diamond for cut. The best place to start: look at factors like polish and symmetry, table (diamond top) percentage, and depth percentage. Check out our table below for advice on where to start with cut quality.
If you're going cross-eyed looking at our chart, book a free consult with us to talk diamonds. If you're creating custom with us, we'll source the most stunning stone in your budget and you won't have to worry about vetting stones yourself.
Recommended proportions for AN EMERALD cut diamond
| Excellent | Very Good | Good | Fair | Poor | |
| Table % | 61-69 | 57-60 or 70-72 | 54-56 or 73-74 | 51-53 or 75-79 | <51 or >79 |
| Depth % | 61-67 | 59-58.9 or 70.1-74 | 54-56.9 or 74.1-79 | 54-56.9 or 74.1-79 | <54 or >79 |
| Girdle | Very Thin to Slighty Thick | Very Thin to Thick | Very Thin to Very Thick | Extremely Thin to Extremely Thick | Extremely Thin to Extremely Thick |
| Culet | None | Very Small | Small | Medium | >Medium |
| Length to widtch ratio | 1.4 to 1.5 | 1.3 to 1.39 or 1.51 to 1.6 | 1.2 to 1.29 or 1.61 to 1.8 | 1.15 to 1.19 or 1.81 to 1.9 | <1.15 or >1.90 |
| Polish/symmetry | Excellent | Very Good | Good | Fair | Poor |
EMERALD CUT DIAMOND – LENGTH TO WIDTH RATIO
Most emerald cut diamonds are rectangular, and the most aesthetic ratio is between 1.30 to 1.60. As with all things diamonds however, choose what speaks to you.
If you prefer square shapes, look at an asscher cut diamond - a stunning step cut we can't get enough of. If you're a Gem Breakfast frequenter, you've probably seen our Founder Catherine's showstopping asscher cut engagement ring that's inspired many custom designs.
ELONGATED VS SQUARISH EMERALD CUTS
Emerald cuts come in a plethora of proportions and there is beauty to be found in every ratio. An under-hyped shape is the elongated emerald cut - slimmer and more statuesque when compared to a classic, closer-to-square emerald shaped diamond.
The elongated shape below has a length x width ratio of 2, whereas the more classic shape has a ratio just over 1.3. They're both beautiful, it just depends on your desired design!
Elongated Emerald Cut Diamond vs. Regular Emerald Cut Diamond
AVOID THE PAVILION BULGE
A diamond's pavilion is the "v-shape" part on the bottom half of a diamond. If the pavilion is too chunky, the diamond's sparkle will suffer and it will look small for its carat weight. Two things to look for to avoid the pavilion problem:
WINDOWING
This is where you can see through the diamond completely - a totally transparent diamond is leaking light and lacking in sparkle thanks to a poor cut.
EXTINCTION
This refers to large black areas in the diamond. Either the diamond has too much depth or a rounded pavilion.
These factors are not covered in a GIA report, but you can often notice them yourself (or if you're working with an expert jeweler, we'll vet all stones for you).
HOW TO CHOOSE AN EMERALD CUT DIAMOND: SUMMARY
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Start with cut - choose the highest quality cut within your budget. Work with an expert jeweler or refer to our chart above to start.
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Choose the clarity grade that corresponds with an eye-clean diamond. This cut shows blemishes easily so you'll want to prioritize clarity more than with a brilliant cut stone.
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With their wide open table, this cut shows a diamond's natural color more than brilliant diamonds. With that said, choose the color you love from clear to champagne!
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For the most aesthetic shape, stay in the range of 1.4 to 1.5 length to width ratio to create your emerald cut ring.
ASSCHER CUT VS EMERALD CUT
Both step cuts, the only real difference between asscher cut diamonds and emerald cuts is their shape. Emerald cut diamonds are usually rectangular whereas asscher cuts are square. Both are beautiful, it's just what you're drawn to.
EMERALD CUT DIAMONDS VS RADIANT CUT DIAMONDS
The only things an emerald diamond and a radiant cut diamond have in common are the rectangular shape and beveled corners. The differences: emerald cuts are 'step cut diamonds' whereas radiant cuts are brilliant cut stones. The radiant cut is incredibly sparkly and the emerald cut has a subtler shine.
HOW TO CHOOSE BETWEEN AN EMERALD CUT AND RADIANT CUT DIAMOND
If you love sparkle, a radiant cut will make your soul sing. Also because of their faceting, they hide inclusions much better than an emerald diamond. If you're on team soft shine, emerald cuts will call your name - just keep in mind you'll need a higher clarity grade for an eye-clean diamond.
CUSHION CUT DIAMONDS VS EMERALD CUT DIAMONDS
The only similarity between cushion cuts and emerald cuts is the rectangular shape. Other than that, cushion cuts are brilliant cut diamonds whereas emerald diamonds are step cut. Cushion cut diamonds have rounded corners while emerald shaped diamonds have sharp, beveled corners.
HOW TO CHOOSE BETWEEN AN EMERALD CUT DIAMOND AND A CUSHION CUT DIAMOND
If you love that clean, geometric, understated energy, an emerald diamond is for you. If you love a soft, romantic (and next-level sparkly) vibe, you might love a cushion cut diamond.
your emerald cut diamonds questions answered
IS AN EMERALD CUT DIAMOND MORE EXPENSIVE?
Emerald cut diamonds are usually less expensive than round brilliant diamonds of comparable quality, and are generally more expensive than most fancy shaped diamonds.
IS AN EMERALD CUT DIAMOND A GOOD DIAMOND?
Emerald cut diamonds are a stunning and incredibly eye-catching diamond choice! They give off an art-deco, hall of mirrors energy that draws you in. Because of their open table, this cut needs higher clarity, color, and cut grades than brilliant cut diamonds in order to look their sparkling best.
What is the disadvantage of emerald cut?
Emerald cut diamonds have less brilliance, fire, and sparkle than brilliant cut diamonds and they show both inclusions and color differences.
WHAT IS SPECIAL ABOUT AN EMERALD CUT DIAMOND?
Emerald cut diamonds are known for their angular, dramatic energy. They're almost hypnotic with their seemingly neverending step-cut facets, and their elongated shape slims and lengthens the look of the finger. Step cut diamonds give off unexpected flashes of light unlike the more continuous sparkle of a brilliant cut diamond.
IS A 1 CARAT EMERALD CUT DIAMOND BIG ENOUGH?
Let's start by saying: whatever diamond size you choose is perfect for you - there are zero rules! Having said that, emerald cut diamonds tend to look larger than other diamonds cuts so you can usually opt for a lower carat weight and get the same amount of coverage vs other diamond cuts.
EMERALD CUT DIAMOND MEANING
Emerald cut diamonds are the stone of sophistication and easy elegance. They're the effortlessly chic diamond shape for those who love classic glamour.
Why do emerald cut diamonds not sparkle?
Emerald cut diamonds sparkle differently than brilliant cut diamonds thanks to their step cut facets - rather than the constant disco ball sparkle of the many-faceted brilliant cut, emerald cut diamonds give off bigger and more intermittant flashes of light from their long parallel facets.
THE MOST FAMOUS EMERALD CUT DIAMONDS
Despite being a less common diamond cut in general, among celebrities, emerald cut engagement rings are the most popular style there is.
Where have you seen an emerald cut engagement ring? On Beyonce, Elizabeth Taylor, JLO, Grace Kelly, Angelina Jolie, and Amal Clooney and so.many.other.stars through history.
Why do celebrities like emerald cut diamonds?Because emerald cut diamonds require a higher clarity to appear eye-clean, the larger sizes can be substantially more expensive - making them a bit of a status symbol for high-income celebrities.
OUR FAVORITE SETTING FOR EMERALD CUT ENGAGEMENT RINGS
We love a three-stone setting for the emerald shape - it lets the center stone shine while adding width and interest to the overall design.
A sleek solitaire engagement ring setting is also stunning to give your stone its solo moment in the spotlight - go with single prongs for minimalism or double prongs for extra detail. Having said that, there's no best setting for an emerald cut diamond - choose whatever speaks to you and worry not at all about what anyone tells you!
Our favorite emerald cut engagement rings
Thinking of creating your own emerald cut engagement ring or treat-yourself ring? Book a free consult with us to chat custom and peruse our custom gallery for inspiration.